WEINGUT CARL LOEWEN
The estate
The wine world has started
changing. Now filigree light wines with pronounced fruit are suddenly en vogue.
These wines correspond to my ideal of Mosel riesling: a wine with playful
elegance and beguiling aromas. It is just a joy to drink such wines. But it is
also a joy for me to produce them!
The roots of our estate
go back to a time of historical change. Napoleon made the Mosel region a French
département and started fundamentally changing the medieval property
structure. With the Code Napoléon modern law was introduced to the Mosel
and through secularization the large holdings of the Church and the monasteries
were broken up and came into private ownership.
Back then the Benedictine
abbey of St. Maximin in Trier was the leading wine producer on the Mosel. The
last administrator of the abbey’s estate in Detzem was one of our
ancestors. During the secularization in 1803 he became the owner of vineyards
in the Maximiner Klosterlay site of Detzem from the abbey in Trier, thus laying
the foundation of our estate.
An important step in its
development was purchasing vineyards in the Laurentiuslay site from the
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt estate in Trier in 1982. The Laurentiuslay is
unquestionably one of our showpieces. In 1995 we purchased a vineyard in the
Ritsch site in Thörnich, also a class 1 site. These are the jewels in our
Riesling crown.
It is with pride that we
look at our holdings which now encompass 8,5 hectares of which 93% are planted
with Riesling. Small areas of Pinot Blanc and Rivaner complete the picture.
Looking after our vineyards carefully plays a central role for us. We tend each
vine by hand almost twenty times per year in order to create optimum growing
conditions, which in turn reward us with the best possible grapes.
The philosophy behind our
work is based on the time-tested methods of the Mosel. Almost all of the class1
vineyards are trained in the traditional way which dates back to the Roman
period, each vine being trained on its own individual pole.
We renounce any mineral
fertilization on our weathered Devonian slate soils.
Nutriments are provided
entirely through balanced organic fertilization.
Through our policy of
minimal fertilization yields are naturally kept at a low level. In this way the
clusters are composed of small berries which, when fully mature, have wonderful
aromas. We categorically refuse yield reduction through green harvesting. Our
cultivation method makes it unnecessary !
The grapes are vinified
in a manner that has not changed in centuries: there is no mechanical movement
of the grapes, instead they fall into the press by gravity. Then follows the
fermentation of the must with the wild yeast from the vineyard. The wines then
stay on their lees until bottling. This results in Riesling wines with a
wonderful elegance and great aromatic complexity. After bottling they are
stored under optimum conditions in our cellars until delivery.
The terroir
The terroir of the great
vineyard sites on the Mosel is characterized by slate soils formed during the
Devonian period, more than 200 million years ago. This sedimentary rock
releases minerals through weathering and these minerals influence the
development of the Riesling grape’s aroma and taste in a profound way.
The soil of our vineyards
is either grey or blue slate. Grey slate is a rock that weathers very easily
giving soils with a high content of clay-like fine material and at high
maturity levels produce substantial, dense wines with a wealth of exotic aromas
recalling peaches, apricots , mangos.
Blue slate is a much
harder rock; there is much less fine laterial to be found in these soils and
more stones, which means they tend to be drier. But if water-bearing layers run
through vineyards with this type of soil, then wines of gorgeous mineral
structure can result whose aromas are characterized by citrus fruit.
Clos to the banks of the
Mosel you also come across some areas with gravel soils, sometimes overlayered
by up to two metres of weathered slate which came down into the valley soil through
erosion. The wines from these soils show notes which range from ripe apples to
peaches and apricots.
The vineyard sites
Leiwener Laurentiuslay
class 1 site
This vineyard certainly
is one of the Mosel’s shooting stars. Until a few years ago it was known
only among insiders, whereas today the Laurentiuslay wines enjoy an excellent
international reputation. Already in the Prussian classification of the Mosel
vineyard sites of 1868 the great class of this site is recognised. In the
classification of Pigott and Johnson the Laurentiuslay is rated a class1 site.
What a stroke of luck
that vineyard reorganization, which would have forced the landowners to
replant, was too expensive a project in this steep vineyard. So the site still
shows us its original face with numerous small dry stone walls and vineyard
terraces. Grey slate determines the wines’ character. The natural water
provision has not been disturbed through newly built roadways and even at the
peak of the driest summers there is enough humidity. In the almost
mediterranean climate heat-loving plants and animals prosper. When the sun is
out one can watch countless lizards on the warm slate rocks.
Thörnicher Ritsch
class 1 site
Until after the Second
World War the Ritsch site of Thörnich belonged to the most highly regarded
vineyards on the Mosel. Its name derives from the brittle grey slate, which
continually crumbles and slides down the hillside. That is also the reason why
the site could not be reorganized and no new roadways could be built. We
acquired our vineyard in the Ritsch only in 1995. The vines are growing on the
slope up into the small terraces. This site has also been been classified in
1868 and by Pigott and Johnson as a class 1 site. Ritsch wines stand out for
their enormous fruit aromas and mineral structure. Citrus, lychee and passion
fruit can be found.
Detzemer Maximiner
Klosterlay class 1 site
In Medieval times the
Benedictine abbey St Maximin in Trier was the leading wine estate on the Mosel.
The monks had holdings in many of the best vineyard sites, amongst others in
the Maximiner Klosterlay of Detzem. In the course of the secularisation under
Napoleon these holdings were sold and one of our ancestors bought some
vineyards in this site; they were the foundation of our estate. The soil of
this vineyard is composed of blue slate and deep down in the bedrock there is a
good reservoir of water. Even in times of great drought the vines here show no
signs of stress.
The Mosel Valley is open
towards the west so that the afternoon sun can reach the vines here without
hindrance, the large water area behind one of the locks in the canalized Mosel
at the vineyard’s foot provides both a heat reservoir and a surface which
reflects sunlight into it. The wines show enormous length and mineral
structure, are elegant and have a wealth of aromas.
Leiwener Klostergarten
The Klostergarten of
Leiwen offers a wide range of different soil types. Here one can find blue
slate, grey slate and also soils where the gravel sub-soil is covered with a layer
of weathered slate, brought down from the surrounding hills by erosion.
Accordingly the wines from here are very diverse in aroma.
In the steep slope of the
Klostergarten ripen the grapes for our ‚Blauschiefer’. In the
vineyards where grey slate dominates and the slope goes up to 25 % the vines
with the selection for the ‚Varidor’ are growing. The more than 40
years old vines which yield the ‚Alte Reben’ are also in the
Klostergarten. The slate soils at the foot of the slope are especially well
suited for light Kabinett wines. In a part of the Klostergarten towards the
Apotheke site of Trittenheim lies a terroir whose microclimate is ideal for the
production of ice wine on a steep slope; a rarity !
The wines
Riesling trocken
A litre bottle with a new
shape ! It is fun to grab a bottle of this fresh Riesling and just enjoy it.
The new design and the refreshing, fruit-driven wine make for a great
experience. The grapes for this estate bottling are harvested at the beginning
of November in order to get fully mature fruit aromas. Even for this wine the
grapes are tipped into the press by gravity and pressed pneumaticaly at low
pressure. The fermentation takes place with natural yeasts at low temperatures.
The result is a delightful, fruit-driven Riesling wine that goes very well with
light dishes and is easy to enjoy.
Blauschiefer trocken
For many years the estate
has owned an old vineyard with Rivaner vines planted on a steep slope which has
a very mineraly slate soil. Although Rivaner does not have the great potential
for quality wines as Riesling, I
developed the ambition to produce a light and refreshing wine from these
grapes. During tastings in the cellar I noticed that Riesling from a steep
slope with a very rocky slate soil which we call ‚Blauschiefer’
complemented the Rivaner very well.
Because the slate soil
determines the wine’s character even more than the grape varieties it is
simply called: ‚Blauschiefer’. The Riesling’s raciness and
subtle fruit provide the wine’s body, the Rivaner’s delicate
acidity and muscat notes add suppleness and elegance. The wine radiates
lightness and elegance; just the right thing !
Riesling Quant
With a long maturation on
the vine the Riesling grapes gain a whole fan of aromas like a peacock’s
tail. Very often at our estate Riesling is only picked in November so that the
aromas have enough time to develop fully . In late autumn temperatures are low,
cool fog alternates with warm autumn sun; conditions which enable the grapes to
retain this great wealth of aroma.
After pressing, the must
from the fully mature grapes comes into the cold cellar and the wild yeast
fermentation we practice is very slow. Once again, these are ideal conditions
for the retention of the grape’s aromatic riches ! With this vinification
method many wines retain a small amount of natural grape sweetness, which is hardly
noticeable on the palate. These wines show a wonderful harmony yet taste dry.
I like this type of wines
very much. In my Mosel dialect we have an expression which perfectly fits the
taste experience of this wine:
quant. We use this word to describe something where everything seems to fit: a
good meal, a nice evening with friends, in short anything which feels good is
quant! Riesling Quant goes with a light, fresh cuisine, asparagus, or just by
itself.
Riesling Varidor
A small yield and small,
healthy berries are the basis for Riesling’s intense fruit aromas. We try
to achieve this goal with the Varidor in a traditional and natural way. For
half a century the vines’ productivity, that is the yield of grapes in
weight, has been maximised through clonal selection. With Varidor we try a very
different way to achieve the natural wealth of Riesling aromas, instead of
pursuing the goal of large yields. In vineyards up to 100 years old, in
cooperation with the Staatliche Lehr- und Versuchsanstalt in Trier, we selected
some hundreds of vines that stood out at the point of full maturity in autumn
because of their golden yellow berries. We took plant material from these vines
and established a new vineyard at our estate.
Because it is planted
with vines whose genetic material is older than clonal selection, the Varidor
vineyard gives very low yields like those of Riesling vineyards at the
beginning of the 20th century. A natural wealth of aromas in the grapes is the
positive side of the equation. The slow, cool fermentation takes place with
wild yeasts and the wine matures in the traditional Mosel Fuder barrels of
neutral oak. Be inspired by the elegant and subtle fruit aromas of this dry
Riesling !
Riesling Alte Reben
At our estate we
cultivate some vineyards of almost biblical age. These vineyards were planted
in the traditional dense way with almost 10,000 vines to the hectare, each vine
trained on its own individual pole. The Riesling vines here show an
extraordinary vitality, their roots having grown deep down into the soil, so
that even in a dry summer the vines never suffer from drought and the grapes
mature beautifully. At the same time the calm which comes with age – following
the vines’ youth of stormy growth –
leads to clusters which
stay small and mature fully in autumn to golden yellowness.
For this wine we use only
the grapes from vines which are at least 40 years old. Some of the vineyards
were planted right after the Second World War. The yields there are modest, but
the grapes’ maturity is extraordinary. Fully ripe, golden yellow grape
material makes the vintner’s heart beat faster ! The result is a
beguiling wine which shows Riesling’s full aroma diversity, a wonderful
richness and at the same time dances over the palate with the elegance of a
prima ballerina.
Leiwener Klostergarten
Riesling Kabinett feinherb
Light, fruit-driven wines
remain the strength of the Mosel. Nowhere else around the globe are there wines
with an alcohol content of 10° that possess fully mature aromas, such
playful elegance and a long finish. Put simply, wines which are great fun to
drink. Vineyards with very old vines give the grapes an incomparably intense,
yet filigree bouquet. Our Kabinett wines are harvested always in old vineyards.
The grapes’ long
maturation on to November lends ripe aromas to the wines. Although the wines
have little alcohol, the taste is exceptional because of this ripeness and the
low yields from old vineyards. We ferment our kabinett wines very slowly, then
the wine matures on the lees until bottling. The result is a refreshing, light
Riesling with splendid fruit aromas. No wonder, that the well known British
wine author Oz Clarke counts German Kabinett wines as among the most underrated
wines of the world !
Riesling from class 1
sites, where the terroir decides
Leiwener Laurentiuslay
Riesling Alte Reben trocken class 1 site
With the Laurentiuslay, a
class 1 site according to the classification of Hugh Johnson and Stuart Pigott,
we possess an ancient vineyard, planted before the onset of the phylloxera
around the turn of the 19th to 20th centuries ! Back then vines still grew on
their own roots which are not phylloxera resistent. Luckily the Laurentiuslay
is still a phylloxera free zone today, so that these vines have survived. They
are planted so densely that in summer it is difficult in summer to move among
them. But it makes sense: the vines are competing with each other, forcing each
vine to produces only a very low yield. Each vine carries just a few, small
golden-yellow bunches of grapes which can achieve optimum ripenness. A yield of
40 hectolitres per hectare is normal, which means just half a bottle of wine
per vine ! However, the aroma potential of these wines is absolutely
extraordinary. Again and again I am deeply impressed by their subtle fruit
aromas and elegance. It is a joy to drink a substantial wine that is so full
and filigree at the same time.
Riesling Detzemer
Maximiner Klosterlay Christopher’s Wine class 1 site
The terroir of a great
vineyard site determines the wines’ character. The terroir forms the
wine, the winemaker’s hand helps Nature’s composition to achieve
fruition. One of those exceptional sites is the Maximiner Klosterlay of Detzem.
Christopher’s Wine is from this great site. It finishes fermentation on
its own and therefore has the balance Mosel Rieslings had until the middle of
the 20th century. No chemical fertilization, natural cultivation of the
vineyards, yields of 50 hl/ha, picking in November; this year the must was of
Auslese quality level. The harvest and pressing follow the centuries-old
method: selecting only the healthy, fully mature grapes which reach the press
through gravity and are then gently pressed pneumaticaly. The fermentation
takes place with wild yeasts and lasts two months, then the wine matures on the
lees until bottling. The result is a wine with beguiling elegance and powerful
richness in perfect harmony. Christopher’s Wine is imposing and delightful.
Wines with residual
sweetness from class 1 sites
Maximiner Riesling
Spätlese class 1 site
This late harvested wine
is our homage to the former owners of this site, the Benedictine abbey St
Maximin in Trier. The grapes from which it is made ripen on the extremely steep
slope of the Maximiner Klosterlay in Detzem. Here the wine is marked by the
blue slate soil, which means that the aromas are dominated by ripe yellow
fruits. Peach, apricots, mango are all to be found in the bouquet of this late
harvest, the ripe, mineraly acidity is paired with exotic sweetness. The
wine’s lightness is documented by the moderate alcohol content of around
8.5°, the high maturity makes for intensity, length and elegance. Enjoy
this classical late harvest.
Leiwener Laurentiuslay
Riesling Spätlese class 1 site
A basket full of fruit to
savour. Let yourself be seduced by this late harvested Riesling whose aromas
are reminiscent of peaches, apricots and mango. The Laurentiuslay of Leiwen is
a class 1 site according to the classification of Johnson and Pigott. The
Riesling grapes ripen until November and at harvest are golden-yellow and packed with lush
exotic fruit aromas. A very slow, cool fermentation with the grapes’ own
yeast allows those aromas to unfold. Then the wine matures for a further six
weeks on the lees. The fermentation and vinification of this wine takes place
in Fuders, the 1000 litre barrels of neutral oak used on the Mosel since Roman
times. It is only in very few places on the planet that such a harmony of high
maturity, subtle acidity, perfectly balanced sweetness and a basket full of
aromas is possible. This wine shows the great strengths of Mosel Riesling:
delicate elegance and lightness. Let yourself be seduced it !
Thörnicher Ritsch
Riesling Spätlese class 1 site
Only in very few great
vineyard sites is the Riesling so intensely shaped by the terroir as it is in
the Ritsch of Thörnich ! Grey slate stimulates the unfolding of a fruit
and mineral structure like a peacock’s tail and leads to a wonderful balance of ripe acidity and
fruity sweetness. All the strengths of Mosel Riesling are documented in this
wine: lightness, elegance, enormous fruitiness. It floats over the palate. This
Riesling bears witness to the cult status that the wines from the Ritsch site
enjoyed at the beginning of the 20th century. The American wine critic Robert
Parker rated the 2001 and the 2002 vintages each with 90 points!
Leiwener Laurentiuslay
Riesling Auslese class 1 site
Our vineyard in the
Laurentiuslay starts at the foot of this site and runs right up on to the upper
edge. Shortly before harvest those parts with the highest ripeness are
identified. According to the weather conditions during the year that could be
either the small terraces with the slate walls or the terroir lower down the
slope with the deeper devon slate soils. The proportion of botrytised berries
varies between 30% and 60 %. Those grapes offer maximum maturity with an ideal
composition of enormous fruit concentration and aroma diversity. The wines show
a playful elegance, the aromas of peaches, apricots and ripe mangos dance on
the tongue, forming an extremely long finish.
Thörnicher Ritsch
Riesling Auslese class 1 site
Our vineyard in the
Ritsch of Thörnich is marked by a particular whim of nature. At the upper
edge of our vineyard, amongst the small slate terraces is a spring. A small
rivulet 30 to 50 centimetres wide flows from the slate soil and even in driest
and hottest summers does not dry out, nor does it swell during rainy periods. Thus
these terraces possess optimum growing conditions for the Riesling vines. The
small dry stone terraces store the heat, the spring provides enough humidity
and the slate soil guarantees the swift drainage of the water into the subsoil
to avoid a cooling effect. The result are super-ripe grapes which are only
slightly affected by noble rot and develop fascinating fruit aromas. The
mineraly fruitiness dominates the wine and ripe citrus aromas form its
backbone.
Our wines in the
international press
... estate rated...
grapes/stars... each wine is highly enjoyable... Karl Josef Loewen has made
good progress with 2003... one of the 20 best German wines of 2001 and 2002...
the best 25 botrytised wines of the world... the world’s best wine
estates... first inclusion in the world wine guide... Slowfood recommendation:
Mosel winegrower Karl Josef Loewen, unwavering maverick... lion-heart Karl
Josef Loewen, rating of Germany’s 75 leading winegrowers... Karl Josef
Loewen is one of the most brillant shooting stars on MSR... he produces
concentrated Riesling wines...
You can find us in Leiwen
on the town’s upper edge, near the Klostergarten site. You are welcome
anytime. On Saturday afternoons until 4 pm also without prior appointment, from
Monday to Friday we would appreciate it if you could call us beforehand.